Lug Nut Torque

By Jon R. Belanger

Sometimes we get caught up so much in the fine details that we forget to check the basics . . . in this case lug nut torque. This is a no brainer right? I mean all you do is tighten 'till they don't turn and then hit the track. Yeah, riiiight.

There's several things that need to be done to properly tighten that wheel . . . and I bet you don't pay attention to all of them.

1. There should be little to no paint on the mating surfaces between the rim and the brake drum. That thick film of Imron that you applied will give you a false torque reading for at least a couple of races and could cause a loose wheel.

2. Just like head bolts there's a pattern used to properly tighten a wheel . . . pick a direction (either clockwise or counterclockwise) and tighten every other bolt. On the first pass tighten to 30 ft/lbs and then on the second pass tighten to 65 ft/lbs. Resist the temptation to over-torque the nuts. It can stretch the bolts, strip the holes, pull a drum out of round and I suspect, even cause a wheel to fail.

3. When using a torque wrench apply the pressure evenly. Don't snap it rapidly the way I've seen many people do. Also when you're done with the wrench set it back to "zero" or the wrench will take a set and not deliver accurate readings.

Well, that wasn't so bad was it? Just remember . . . if you take care of your wheels/drums they'll take care of you.

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